TSAVO NATIONAL PARK
The largest of Kenya’s national parks, the combined area of Tsavo West and East is more than 21,000 square kilometres. Tsavo West and Tsavo East are 2 distinct national parks, separated by the Mombasa highway. They also have distinct ecosystems which offer different types of safari experiences.
The vegetation in Tsavo East is mainly flat and open grassland, much like what you would see in the Maasai Mara, only 9 times bigger and much less crowded. Most of the lodges in Tsavo East are found in the south of the park, south of the Galana River. The north was completely closed off to the public for years and although it is now open, infrastructure is still limited. But this is part of the attraction of Tsavo East. You can set off on a game drive and not see another vehicle for 3 hours, which is something you can't do in Kenya's more well known reserves. In fact, you can park off somewhere with a view and feel like you have the whole place to yourself.
The vegetation of Tsavo West is much thicker. The landscape is dotted by volcanic inselbergs, small and big. The area was devastated by eruptions as recently as 300 years ago and as a result, the vegetation is much more dense than it is in Tsavo East, thanks to the nutritious volcanic soil. The trees and dense savanna does make animal spotting more difficult, but also more surprising. You never know what you might see around the next corner. It is still possible to see the remnants of the volcanic eruptions, as some of the lava flows remain uncovered by vegetation. The Shetani Lave Flow is a good place where you can get out and stretch your legs. There are even lava caves below the surface which claimed the lives of many small animals and fell into them and couldn't get out.
The Mzima Springs boast crystal clear water which has been filtered through the volcanic rock. You will find good populations of hippos and crocodiles here. There is even an underwater viewing chamber.
Tsavo East is definitely the more rugged and off the beaten track park. It isn't currently serviced by any scheduled flights. You can arrange a charter flight, but this is expensive and so it is best reached by transfer or driving.
By contrast, Tsavo West is serviced by 2 airstrips and is regularly used for affordable scheduled flights. Most of the lodges in Tsavo West are found in the north of the park and when the bridge over the Tsavo River is washed away, the south of the park becomes inaccessible.
Wildlife
Despite having very different vegetation, the wildlife experience is largely the same in both Tsavo East and Tsavo West. The park is famous for its large herds of dust covered elephants, with estimates at about 10 000 of the pachyderms roaming around. You will never be short of elephant sightings in Tsavo. You will find all your usual grazers and browsers, such as impalas, gerenuk, lesser kudu, Burchell's zebra, Grevy's zebra, buffalo, and the critically endangered hirola antelope. There are a few black rhinos which can be found in a sanctuary where they are constantly guarded by game rangers.
If you have heard the name Tsavo before, it might because of the area's famous short-maned lions. In 1898, when the British were building a railroad from the coastal town of Mombasa to the interior, they came across an obstacle in the form of the Tsavo River. A bridge had to be built and a labour camp was set up to accomplish this. Two male lions started attacking the labourers and dragging them off to be eaten. The lions killed over 30 labourers and many more fled from the camp in terror. It took Colonel JH Patterson, who was in charge of buidling the bridge, 9 months to kill the lions, which are on display today in the Chicago Field Museum. This story has been immortalised in a movie called The Ghost and the Darkness. Knowing this story gives a little bit more edge and suspense to spotting lions in Tsavo.
Over five hundred species of birds have been recorded including the saddle billed stork, martial eagle and the violet wood hoopoe. Horbills can often be found making their home in the iconic baobab trees, which dot the landscape of Tsavo West.
The vegetation in Tsavo East is mainly flat and open grassland, much like what you would see in the Maasai Mara, only 9 times bigger and much less crowded. Most of the lodges in Tsavo East are found in the south of the park, south of the Galana River. The north was completely closed off to the public for years and although it is now open, infrastructure is still limited. But this is part of the attraction of Tsavo East. You can set off on a game drive and not see another vehicle for 3 hours, which is something you can't do in Kenya's more well known reserves. In fact, you can park off somewhere with a view and feel like you have the whole place to yourself.
The vegetation of Tsavo West is much thicker. The landscape is dotted by volcanic inselbergs, small and big. The area was devastated by eruptions as recently as 300 years ago and as a result, the vegetation is much more dense than it is in Tsavo East, thanks to the nutritious volcanic soil. The trees and dense savanna does make animal spotting more difficult, but also more surprising. You never know what you might see around the next corner. It is still possible to see the remnants of the volcanic eruptions, as some of the lava flows remain uncovered by vegetation. The Shetani Lave Flow is a good place where you can get out and stretch your legs. There are even lava caves below the surface which claimed the lives of many small animals and fell into them and couldn't get out.
The Mzima Springs boast crystal clear water which has been filtered through the volcanic rock. You will find good populations of hippos and crocodiles here. There is even an underwater viewing chamber.
Tsavo East is definitely the more rugged and off the beaten track park. It isn't currently serviced by any scheduled flights. You can arrange a charter flight, but this is expensive and so it is best reached by transfer or driving.
By contrast, Tsavo West is serviced by 2 airstrips and is regularly used for affordable scheduled flights. Most of the lodges in Tsavo West are found in the north of the park and when the bridge over the Tsavo River is washed away, the south of the park becomes inaccessible.
Wildlife
Despite having very different vegetation, the wildlife experience is largely the same in both Tsavo East and Tsavo West. The park is famous for its large herds of dust covered elephants, with estimates at about 10 000 of the pachyderms roaming around. You will never be short of elephant sightings in Tsavo. You will find all your usual grazers and browsers, such as impalas, gerenuk, lesser kudu, Burchell's zebra, Grevy's zebra, buffalo, and the critically endangered hirola antelope. There are a few black rhinos which can be found in a sanctuary where they are constantly guarded by game rangers.
If you have heard the name Tsavo before, it might because of the area's famous short-maned lions. In 1898, when the British were building a railroad from the coastal town of Mombasa to the interior, they came across an obstacle in the form of the Tsavo River. A bridge had to be built and a labour camp was set up to accomplish this. Two male lions started attacking the labourers and dragging them off to be eaten. The lions killed over 30 labourers and many more fled from the camp in terror. It took Colonel JH Patterson, who was in charge of buidling the bridge, 9 months to kill the lions, which are on display today in the Chicago Field Museum. This story has been immortalised in a movie called The Ghost and the Darkness. Knowing this story gives a little bit more edge and suspense to spotting lions in Tsavo.
Over five hundred species of birds have been recorded including the saddle billed stork, martial eagle and the violet wood hoopoe. Horbills can often be found making their home in the iconic baobab trees, which dot the landscape of Tsavo West.
where to stay...
From our visits to Tsavo, we have first-hand knowledge of the hotels and below you can find the ones we most commonly use. Those hotels include mainly our favourites sorted from low-key to deluxe, which are usually smaller hotels with very personalised service, but also some bigger places, if they are the best or only option available.
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tsavo east |
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Galdessa
SATAO
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tsavo westlions bluff lodge
severin safari camp
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