With nearly 38% of its land safeguarded for nature's wonders, can you imagine a better African destination than Namibia? Boasting protected areas that span vast terrains, the wilderness calls out to those who seek thrill and tranquillity.
But what is it about safaris in Namibia that make them truly unforgettable? Dive into the allure of the desert-adorned landscapes, meet the captivating wildlife, and find out how to make the most of your Namibian safari experience.

The sight of endless dunes, their golden hues changing as the sun moves across the sky, is a sight to behold. These dunes, some of the tallest in the world, rise like giants from the ground. They form a picturesque backdrop for many safari destinations.
Namibia's deserts are not just about the dunes, though. They're home to unique flora and fauna adapted to thrive in such harsh conditions that make every safari trip in Namibia a learning experience.

The salt pans of Namibia, vast and shimmering under the African sun, are another testament to the country's diverse landscapes. These expansive areas, devoid of vegetation, have an otherworldly beauty.
But the true magic happens around the waterholes. Especially in dry seasons. They become bustling hubs of activity as animals gather, ensuring a vibrant display of Namibia's wildlife.

Namibia's topography is not just limited to deserts and salt pans. The country boasts deep canyons carved by rivers over millennia and mountain ranges that add to its varied geology.
These areas serve as excellent vantage points. From here, one can witness the vastness of the landscapes and appreciate the sheer scale of Namibia's wilderness.

Namibia's coastline, where the desert meets the Atlantic, is a realm of mysteries. The cold Benguela current brings with it a unique marine ecosystem.
Along the coast, fog rolls in, nourishing life in an otherwise arid region. This creates a hauntingly beautiful scene, making it a favorite spot for photographers and nature enthusiasts.

Namibia's commitment to preserving its wilderness is evident. A significant portion of its land is dedicated to conservation. This has led to thriving populations of wildlife and gives visitors an authentic experience.
Safaris in Namibia are not just about witnessing wildlife or soaking in the views. They're about understanding the delicate balance of nature and the importance of preserving these pristine landscapes for future generations.

A jewel among safari destinations, Etosha National Park stands out with its vast salt pan and diverse wildlife. This park is a haven for photographers and wildlife enthusiasts alike.
Elephants, lions, and rhinos are just a few of the many species that roam freely here. They provide visitors with countless opportunities for awe-inspiring sightings.

Kaokoland is located in the rugged northwest of Namibia. It offers a truly remote safari experience where you'll find a vast expanse of undulating dunes, rocky outcrops, and unique fauna. It's home to the Himba people, one of the last semi-nomadic tribes in Africa.
Here, visitors can witness desert-adapted elephants and lions. This makes it a must-visit for those seeking an off-the-beaten-path safari destination.

Namibia is a treasure trove for wildlife enthusiasts. Its vast landscapes, ranging from scorching deserts to lush wetlands, provide a habitat for a plethora of animals. A Namibia safari promises captivating wildlife encounters that are sure to leave travelers with lasting memories.
Let's delve into the heart of wildlife in Namibia and the best destinations in Namibia to witness them.

The rugged terrains of Damaraland are home to a unique group of elephants. These desert-adapted elephants have evolved to survive in the harsh conditions of the Namibian desert. With larger feet and a smaller body size than their savanna counterparts, these elephants trek vast distances in search of water.
Witnessing these gentle giants navigate the rocky landscapes is a testament to the resilience of wildlife in Namibia.

For avid birdwatchers, the Caprivi Strip is a paradise. This lush region boasts over 450 bird species, making it one of the top destinations in Namibia for birding.
From the vibrant Carmine Bee-eaters to the regal African Fish Eagles, the variety is truly astounding. The melodious calls and vibrant plumage of these birds add an enchanting aura to the safari experience.

While the Skeleton Coast is often associated with its eerie landscapes and shipwrecks, it also hosts one of Africa's lesser-known carnivores, the brown hyena. Often overshadowed by their spotted relatives, brown hyenas are solitary creatures with a shaggy appearance.
Catching a glimpse of these elusive animals against the backdrop of the desolate coast is a highlight for many on a Namibia safari.

Where to go on safari in Namibia to see rhinos? The Palmwag Concession is the answer. This region in northwestern Namibia is a sanctuary for both black and white rhinos.
With dedicated conservation efforts, the area offers guided rhino tracking safaris. Walking on foot and tracking these magnificent beasts is both an adrenaline-pumping and humbling experience.

Embarking on a Namibia safari is a dream for many. The vast landscapes, mesmerizing dunes, and diverse wildlife in Namibia make it a top destination for nature lovers. However, the success of your trip largely depends on your planning.
From choosing the best Namibia travel destinations to understanding the best times to witness wildlife, every detail counts.

Namibia's unique climate can greatly influence your safari experience. The dry season, typically from May to October, is generally considered the best time for wildlife viewing. Water sources become scarce, drawing animals to specific areas, increasing the chances of encounters.
On the other hand, the wet season breathes life into the landscapes, providing a completely different, but equally mesmerizing, visual treat.

Namibia is vast, and not all destinations may suit everyone's interests. If you're keen on spotting the big cats, Etosha National Park is a must-visit. For those intrigued by the desert-adapted wildlife, Damaraland is a top choice.
Knowing where to go on safari in Namibia can make a significant difference in your experience. It's essential to research and select destinations that align with your interests.

Your choice of accommodation can make or break your safari experience. Namibia offers a range of options, from luxury lodges to rustic campsites. It's essential to choose accommodations that offer both comfort and strategic locations.
Proximity to waterholes or animal migration routes can enhance your chances of wildlife sightings right from your room!

A safari is not just about ticking off animals from a checklist. It's an immersive experience where you're a guest in the wild's domain.
Always be respectful of the environment and the animals. Avoid making loud noises or trying to attract animals. Respect the guidelines provided by your guides or local authorities.
Your consciousness ensures the well-being of the wildlife and maintains the sanctity of their habitats.

Embarking on a Namibian journey is undoubtedly exciting. The allure of the vast landscapes and diverse wildlife draws many travelers each year.
With so many options and places to explore, knowing where to go on safari in Namibia can be overwhelming. This is where expert advice becomes invaluable.

Experts in Namibian travel have an in-depth understanding of the region. They're aware of the subtle nuances of each destination. Whether you're a bird-watching enthusiast or on a quest to see the Big Five, they can guide you to the most suitable locations.
The result? A journey tailored to your unique interests and desires.

Researching and planning a trip can consume a lot of time. The sheer volume of information available can be daunting. An expert, with their vast experience, can quickly point you in the right direction.
They can provide insights on the best times to visit, ideal durations at each spot, and much more. In short, they streamline the process, allowing you to focus on the anticipation of the adventure.

Namibia is wild and untamed. While this is a significant part of its charm, it also poses certain risks. Travel experts ensure you're informed about the necessary precautions.
Whether it's advice on safe camping practices or understanding animal behaviors, they prioritize your safety.

Venturing into Namibia's wild, you'll uncover nature's artwork and its mesmerizing inhabitants. But the beauty of this destination isn't just in its landscapes or wildlife. It's also in the curated experiences crafted by safari specialists.
At Indigo Safaris, our seasoned team has traversed these terrains to ensure that every safari experience meets and surpasses your dreams. So, if the call of the wild resonates with you, isn't it time you answered? Explore our tailor-made safaris in Namibia today.

This is our blog which we try to keep updated about the Covid19 entry requirements for African countries, as well as any other rules and regulations.
 
What has emerged as standard in Africa is that all countries require a negative PCR test before you are allowed to travel to them. This means that if you are visiting multiple countries, you generally have to get a new PCR test every time you depart one country and head to the next.
UPDATE: Countries have slowly started dropping the PCR test requirement for vaccinated travellers
 
For other popular countries and destinations, we will tell you how it easy to get tested inside each country, but first, we have made a table to show what the requirements are for you to enter the various countries in the first place.

The rules can change without warning and should always be checked on each country's government website.

South Africa
South Africa is the biggest country in Southern Africa and the economic hub of the region. It is also the transit hub for Southern Africa as many flights to Botswana, Zimbabwe, Namibia and Mozambique transit through Johannesburg. This means that these other countries are often dependent on South Africa for getting travellers through to them and back out again, which made it important for South Africa to be able to offer speedy and easily accessible PCR tests.

Travellers departing from OR Tambo Intl airport in Johannesburg may now get tested and collect their PCR certificate at the airport prior to departure. Next Pathology has opened a rapid PCR testing lab in the Kafue Room of the Intercontinental Hotel, just outside the international arrivals hall. The lab promises a turnaround time of only 2 - 4 hours for test results. You should make an appointment on their website, here: https://nextbio.co.za/nextpath-for-travel/
In Cape Town Airport, Navomix is operating a testing clinic near the food court which can produce rapid PCR test results within 2 - 4 hours. Here is the website: https://navomixhealth.co.za/

One of our preferred guesthouses in Johannesburg, Safari Club SA, is now offering day rooms to all travellers waiting for their PCR test results. Guests will be allocated a room for the time they are at the hotel and will have access to all the hotel amenities including bar services, swimming pool, use of the garden and ordering of meals. Transfers are included in the day room rate.
 
In the Greater Kruger Park, South Africa’s wildlife gem and one of its most popular destinations, PCR testing is also possible now. A PCR clinic has been set up in the town of Hoedspruit, which is the nearest town to many lodges within the Greater Kruger Park. Tests are only carried out between 08:00 - 10:30am. Lodges are able to transfer guests in between safari activities to the town of Hoedspruit to get a PCR test done. The cost of the test is ZAR850 per person, while the cost of the transfer will differ depending on the lodge you are staying at. Some lodges have gone a step further and are able to offer PCR tests in your room. Please ask us for an updated list of which lodges can do this.

Botswana
Botswana is one of the most popular destinations for a wildlife safari due to the exquisite unspoilt nature of its wilderness. However this vast wilderness and lack of infrastructure which many people fall in love with also originally meant that getting a PCR test done would be difficult.

You must be fully vaccinated and have received a booster shot in order to enter Botswana without a PCR test. If you have not received a booster shot, but have only received your second shot within the previous 6 months, you do not need a PCR test. All other travellers need a negative PCR test not older than 72 hours to enter Botswana. If you have not received your second dose or your booster shot, you will receive the shot upon landing in Botswana. Unvaccinated travellers are not allowed to enter Botswana..

All passengers departing Botswana require a negative PCR, no matter where you are flying to. You can be tested in camp (which is expensive) or you can do an Express PCR test at Maun Airport for BWP1200 per person. For those departing from Kasane, it is very easy to get tested at the clinic there for BWP500. Prices are subject to change.

Zimbabwe
The primary destination of choice for any traveller to Zimbabwe is Victoria Falls, so this is where the government has focussed most of its efforts. PCR testing is now possible upon arrival or departure at Victoria Falls Airport, with a waiting time of 3-6 hours for the results. Alternatively, several luxury lodges offer in-house testing now. The cost of the test is US$60 per person, but this can change without notice.

Namibia
The majority of itineraries to Namibia only include one or two nights at each destination, which makes finding the time to have tests done difficult. In addition, Namibia is a vast, sparsely populated country. Namibia has come up with an ingenius solution. As all safaris typically start and end in Windhoek, PCR test roadblocks have been set up on the two main highways into Windhoek. This means that as you return to Windhoek, you can stop off and get tested. Results take 7 - 14 hours, which means you will likely need a night of post-tour accommodation before departing, but this has to be the most simple testing solution we have come across in Africa so far. You can view more details and book an appointment here: https://www.covidtestnam.com/

Zambia
From 28 March 2021, fully vaccinated travellers no longer require a negative PCR test to enter Zambia. All unvaccinated or partially vaccinated travellers require a negative PCR test not older than 72 hours.

To leave Zambia, you will only need to get another PCR test done if the country you are travelling to requires it. For some reason, in addition to a negative PCR test certificate, you also have to get a Ministry of Health certification which is a separate document with an additional cost.

Many people visit Zambia to see the mighty Victoria Falls. There are testing facilities in the town of Livingstone, but is very difficult to arrange the testing on an individual basis, especially since you cannot pay for the tests with cash or credit card. Only EFT bank transfers are accepted. For this reason, hotels have stepped up to help guests arrange tests. You can pay the hotel for your PCR test and they will then transfer the payment to the Zambian health authorities. Private testing can be conducted at the hotel and the hotel will help to arrange this. The test costs between USD100 - USD150.

If you are going on a wild and remote safari in Zambia, to places such as Kafue, South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi, it is possible to get tested there and have your swabs flown to Lusaka for processing. This incurs quite a cost, you are looking at US$250 - US$320 and it might be cheaper just to spend a night in Lusaka at the end of your holiday and get tested there.

All test results take 24 - 48 hours to be delivered. Therefore, if you are only visiting Victoria Falls for  2 nights, it would be a good idea to get tested on the day you arrive.

Tanzania
Fully vaccinated travellers no longer require a PCR test to enter Tanzania. All unvaccinated or partially vaccinated travellers require a negative PCR test not older than 72 hours. Everyone needs to fill out a traveller surveillance form. Filling out this form will give you a Unique Health Code which must be presented upon landing in Tanania. The form can be filled out here: https://afyamsafiri.moh.go.tz/ You may need a negative PCR test to depart, depending on the country you are departing to, or the airline you are travelling with. It is possible to get a negative PCR test in Dar Es Salaam, Arusha and Zanzibar. Tests cost between USD100 - 120 and results can take up to 96 hours. Please note that the current government advice is for travellers to undergo Covid19 testing a minimum of 5 days prior to departure to allow enough time for results to be delivered.

Kenya
All vaccinated travellers no longer require PCR tests in order to enter Kenya. If you are over 18, you must be vaccinated in order to enter Kenya. If you are over 18 and unvaccinated, you will be denied entry. Proof of vaccination must be uploaded to www.globalhaven.org before you board your flight. If you are under 18 and unvaccinated, you will require a negative PCR test not older than 72 hours in order to enter Kenya and will then be given a rapid antigen test upon arrival at a cost of US$30. All travellers (including those in transit) will be expected to fill the traveler’s health locator form and submit before travel (please do this once you have your airline seat numbers).  All arrivals are expected to self-monitor and report daily through the jitenge platform for 14 consecutive days in Kenya.

From 01 January 2021, all travellers requiring a visa will need to apply for an e-visa in advance. No visas shall be issued on arrival in Kenya. For more information visit www.evisa.go.ke 

When departing Kenya, it is possible to be tested in your hotel in Nairobi at a cost of US$120 per person. Results will be ready within 24 hours. It is also possible to be tested in some safari destinations, including the Maasai Mara. The collection point for testing in the Maasai Mara is in Mararienta, close to Musiara Gate and it costs US$110. Alternatively, the test can come to your camp, for US$140 per person (*min 2 guests.) Testing in the Mara his is subject to availability and results will take 48 hours. You only need to get a PCR test done on departure if the country you are travelling to requires it.

Uganda
Fully vaccinated travellers do not require a negative PCR test to enter. Unvaccinated or partially vaccinated travellers require a PCR test not older than 72 hours to enter Uganda,. If you are unvaccinated, you also require a negative PCR test not older than 72 hours to depart Uganda, no matter what the rules of your next destination country are.

Rwanda
Rwanda has a complicated set of testing standards. There is one testing standard for entering Rwanda and another one for entering Rwanda's national parks. Rwanda is implementing double testing standards. This means that you need a negative PCR test not older than 72 hours, but that once you arrive, you will be given a second test to confirm the results of the first test. You will have to quarantine in a hotel for 3 at your own cost while waiting for the results of the test. Thereafter you will have to take additional tests at designated sites on day 3 and day 7. Tourists visiting national parks will be required to take a mandatory Rapid Antigen test on a daily basis at their own cost. A facilitation request accommpanied by guest identification details as well as their travel itinerary is required to be submitted by the tour operator or hotel to [email protected] 72 hours prior to arrival.

To depart Rwanda, you need to undergo another PCR test, which you are encouraged to book and pay for online at least 2 days prior to departure, here: www.rbc.gov.rw;

Seychelles
From 15 March, all fully immunised travellers do not require a PCR test to enter Seychelles. Fully immunised means having received the first 2 doses of a vaccine and a booster dose 6 months later. Children between 12 - 18 years old do not require a booster. All partially or unvaccinated travellers require a negative PCR test not older than 72 hours or a rapid antigen test done in a certified laboratory within 24 hours prior to departure for Seychelles.
You only need to get a negative PCR test to depart Seychelles if it is a requirement of the country you will be travelling to.

Mauritius
If you are not fully vaccinated, you have to do a mandatory 14 day hotel quarantine upon arrival in Mauritius. As such, we only recommend travelling there if you are fully vaccinated. Everyone entering Mauritius requires a negative PCR test not older than 72 hours. You will also be required to a do a rapid antigen test upon arrival and again on day 5. All travellers must fill in the mandatory health forms before landing in Mauritius.

We have been working hard updating our website during lockdown and have added new pages specially dedicated to multi-country itineraries. If you are looking to explore as much of Africa as possible in one go, or tick off the biggest highlights, check out our pages for Southern Africa Combo Itineraries and East African Combo Itineraries.

Please remember that you will have to adhere to the lockdown rules of any country you are travelling to, such as curfews and mandatory mask wearing.
 
If you are unsure about anything, send us an e-mail or give us a call and we’ll do our best to make your ideal trip happen.

I first went to Namibia in 1998 and have been back many times since. In that time I have met, tried, and tested many different service providers, car hire companies, lodges, campsites and routes. I’ve done it in everything from a four-door saloon car to specially built 12-seater four-wheel-drives, one modified to take a wheelchair-bound client.
 
Namibia has a surprising variety of landscapes, the oldest tribes in Africa, and some rare and stunning fauna and flora, from desert-dwelling elephants and rhinos to 2000-year-old plants. There is a similar variety in itineraries, campsites, and lodges.
 
Namibia is easily explored on a self-drive basis, which gives maximum flexibility and even though the roads are 70% gravel roads, with a suitable vehicle the driving is easy; I’d always recommend a raised SUV or pick-up truck over a normal road car. There are also a number of set-date group guided trips to experience the main highlights of the country on a budget. And if you want to see more in less time and have a very exclusive experience, then a flying safari is the way to go.

Highlights
The sand dunes of the southern Namib Desert five hours from the capital, Windhoek.
Desert-dwelling elephants, black rhinos, and lions in the other-worldly wildernesses of northern Damaraland and Koakoland.
Abundant game in Etosha NP.
Leopard and cheetah tracking at Okonjima, three hours north of Windhoek.
In the far south, the supremely photogenic deserted mining settlement of Kolmanskop and the fantastic Fish River Canyon.
Amazing scenery throughout the country. 
 
Seasons
If it rains, it rains between November and March, the rest of the year is very dry. In the winter months of June, July and August, night time temperatures in the desert can drop to freezing. Daytime temperatures are 25-31°C. ​
​
​Namibia is a country we know extremely well; I have been there nine times, spending a total of 27 weeks in the country, coming it from north to south and east to west. Matthew O’Brien, one of our Senior Safari Consultants, used to guide overland tours there, and Ines Moosmann, our Sales and Product supremo, has spent over two months here too.
 
To paint a bit more of a picture of the many wonders of this beautiful and diverse country, we have put together a selection of our individual highlights.
 
Kicking off is Matthew.

Dead Vlei
It is hard to conjure up the adjectives to describe your feelings when you first set your eyes on Dead Vlei. I can remember the first time I saw pictures of Dead Vlei in postcards and thought that such a place couldn’t be real. The colours were too vivid and too contrasting. Those postcards had to have been manipulated. There was the whiteness of the salt pan, the sharp ochre colour of the towering sand dunes and the deep blue of the sky that you find in parts of the world that haven’t been touched by air pollution.
 
The journey to Dead Vlei is an exciting one. It is located 66km inside the Namib-Naukluft National Park on a stretch of road that winds through the oldest desert in the world, past some of the highest sand dunes in the world, all of which are bright orange, with the occasional Oryx and Springbok running on them.
 
About 5km before you get to Dead Vlei, the tar road ends and turns into a 4x4 sand road. If you have your own 4x4 and know what you are doing, you can proceed along the sand road yourself, keeping your revs up so that you don’t get stuck. Digging your car out of sand is not anyone’s idea of fun. If you don’t have a 4x4, you can either walk the last 5km, or catch the shuttle that will take you there. The shuttle is quite an experience as the drivers load you into the back of an open game viewer and roar through the sand like rally drivers while you cling to the roll bars.
 
Once dropped off in the parking lot, in the shade of the only tree there, it’s just 400 more metres to go and after one short climb up a tiny dune, you can lay your eyes on Dead Vlei and confirm to yourself that those postcards were not lying. Most people stop and stare for a few minutes to take it all in before finally heading into the Dead Vlei to marvel at it all and take their own post card pictures.

Swakopmund
It might seem weird to be writing about a seaside town as one my favourite places in a land of contrasts such as Namibia, but you have to remember what you will have been through to get to the town and the sights you will have seen along your journey. Most people who arrive in Swakopmund do so after bouncing along a corrugated dirt road for hundreds of kilometres. To those travellers from more developed parts of the world where everyone has a nice smooth tar road running past their gates, finding what actually amounts to a dirt highway snaking its way through the driest landscape in Southern Africa must be quite an experience. Then the corrugations end, the dirt turns to tar and you have arrived in Swakopmund, Namibia’s seaside playground. It is perhaps a weird place to have a seaside resort, as the Atlantic Ocean is freezing and the town is usually blanketed in sea fog every morning.

Namibia Rand Reserve/Wolwedans
The Namib Rand Reserve offers the most beautiful desert scenery, where mountains meet the desert that looks like a soft, orange and light green carpet and all that with no crowds of people. Activities are all private, guided by fantastic guides who not only find the bigger game like all the common desert adapted antelopes, zebras, giraffe and baboons, but also the invisible inhabitants of this harsh environment like hares, moulds, mice, moles, beetles, spiders, lizards, chameleons and other reptiles. A highlight is an excursion on horseback, which really makes you feel one with nature and brings you to the most special spots.

Etosha
Etosha is the only national park in Africa with an semi-arid environment and its main characteristic, the Etosha Salt Pan is so large that it can be seen from space. Despite this dry environment you can find an abundance of wildlife here, congregating around the many waterholes. Nowhere else can you find as many species sharing a waterhole as in Etosha, it’s usually a lively gathering of giraffe, zebras, wildebeest, elephants, rhinos, jackals, warthogs, lions, and numerous antelope species and all with the background of white earth and blues skies; beautiful and fantastic for photographers.

​Fish River Canyon
The second biggest canyon in the world might not be as spectacular as some of the other well-known canyons in the world, but it is still spectacular to see how the river has snaked its way through the rocks all the way from Seeheim to AiAis, on the border to South Africa. My favourite spot here is Fish River Lodge, where you will also be the only one around and your room will look straight down into the canyon, with incredible sunsets, which is pretty special. The hikes from there also take you down into the canyon, rather than just along the rim and you can even camp overnight in the canyon and make it a multi-day hiking excursion.

​I’ve got to say, these are pretty cool spots, mainly. Swakopmund doesn’t do much for me these days, though the size of steaks at Kuki’s are always impressive. Etosha has superb wildlife, Okaukuejo waterhole is a rhino magnet at night, and the elsewhere elusive blavk rhino is easy to see. Big cat sightings are common too, and it is the only place where I have seen Aardwolf in daylight, mating nonetheless. Wolwedans is s-t-u-n-n-i-n-g, both the reserve and the accommodation, I love it there, such a special place. And enjoying a sundowner round the fire (it gets cold at night) at Fish River Lodge having spent the day descending into the canyon and then bounding back up, is a delight.
 
But my favourites involve desert-adapted wildlife in Damaraland and Koakoland, where not only elephants, rhinos, and lions roam, but where the game is truly wild, not hemmed in by any boundaries. Giraffe, zebra, oryx and springbok can be encountered as you cruise along the gravel roads through the ever-changing and ever-stunning landscapes. 

Damaraland
Damaraland is a huge, untamed, ruggedly diverse and beautiful region with prehistoric water courses, open plains, grassland, massive granite kopjes and deep gorges. Along the coastal belt, the geography has vast sand areas that are able to sustain small, but wide-ranging, populations of desert-adapted elephant, black rhino, giraffe, ostrich and springbok. Elephant and rhino move through euphorbia bush country. It's also home to the highest peak in the country, Brandberg, and its  ancient "White Lady" rock art. 
 
Damaraland extends 600km south of Kaokoland down to the main road to Swakopmund at Uis, and extends 200km inland from the Skeleton Coast. Named after the Damara people in the area, the name is still commonly used, although the entire region has now been renamed; the southern section is in the Erongo region and the north forms part of the Kunene region. 

Kaokoland
The remote northwest corner of Namibia, the remotest part of the country, is one of my favourite places on the planet. Now part of the Kunene Region, it's rugged yet sublimely beautiful, with incredible craggy mountains, coastal desert, huge areas of sand in dried-up river beds full of trees and bushes, and the country’s only flowing waterfalls at Epupa and Ruacana. Stretching north from the Hoanib River up to the Kunene River and the Angolan border, the region is home to desert-adapted wildlife; elephants, black rhino, lions, giraffe, springbok, Hartmann's zebra and around 5,000 Himba pastoralists. The game is relatively sparse, but so rewarding to see it, and the backdrops make excellent photographs in the early morning and late afternoon light, when the pastel shades glow. From ragged mountain ridges, to sandy plains dotted with bushes or tufts of grass, the landscapes are postcard porn. Boating or canoeing on the Kunene, and putting a cheeky foot or two on Angolan soil is a bonus. Kaokoland is also the place from where the Skeleton Coast can be experienced in the most depth, if staying at one of the up-market lodges , like Shipwreck and Hoanib Valley Lodge.

Self-driving in the far north is for the intrepid, experienced, and prepared only. There is no cell phone coverage in most parts, and very few to no passing vehicles, depending where you are. Some of the routes involved driving through thick sand, navigating with a mix of GPS and dead-reckoning. It is possible to drive part of way, and then make use of a lodge transfer service or light aircraft for the final leg.
 
My final favourite place is also the last on a classic circuit, Okonjima Game Reserve, halfway between Windhoek and the Etosha National Park; only a two-and-a-half-hour drive or a brief flight into the reserve’s private airstrip. At the end of a trip, it’s a great last stop to give yourself the best chance of having a good encounter or two with leopard and cheetah, and potentially brown hyaena and pangolin, as well as the in-house patients of the AfriCat Foundation.